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Well the T-case itself cost me $400 with exchange of the old one. Thee shifter was about $30, and the Warn hubs were $80. The installation was pretty easy, though I must admit I was sorta nervous about it before hand. 1. Drain the fluid from the electronic case and disconnect the wiring harness at the shift motor. Then disconnect both drive shafts from the t-case. 2. Put a jack underneath the t-case to support it and begin to unbolt the case. I believe they are either 1/2" or 13mm bolts, you will need a flex-joint socket to get the upper bolts off as the is not enough clearance between the body and the t-case housing. 3. Once the case is unbolted you can go ahead and slide it off the output shaft of the tranny. The case is not very heavy (I'd say about 70lbs.) so one person and a jack or two people can lower it quite easily. 4. There is a gasket that sits between the tranny and the t-case so you're probably going to want to replace it at this time. Once the old case is out you are ready to put the manual shift one in. On the end of the tranny there is a locating pin which corresponds to a hole in the t-case, line these up and bolt in the t-case. Make sure both the t-case and the tranny are in neutral is it will make lining up the splined shafts much easier. 5. Once the t-case is in place it is time to install the shifter. Get inside the truck and peel back the carpet over the tranny hump. You will need to remove the kick panel next to the e-brake as well as the entry guard on the drivers side. I also removed the front seats and the center console to have more room. Once the carpet is up take a hammer and chisel (or screwdriver) and begin peeling away the plate covering the shifter hole. It is held in with some type of silicon sealant and is sort of a pain in the butt to remove. Once the plate is out you can go ahead and install the shifter and screw it to the floor, I believe the screw holes were already there. 6. Once the shifter is in you need to connect it to the t-case. A word of caution here, there are several different lengths of linkages. The linkage I got with the shifter was marked C-6 and ZF, and it was too long for my AOD. I went back to the wrecking yard and they gave me one marked T-18 (they could not find any marked AOD). The T-18 linkage was a bit short but I actually prefer that becuase now the shifter handle sits further forward, out of th way, when it is in 2WD. The linkage is connected to the t-case by polyurethane grommets which can be had a the dealership parts counter. they are sort of hard to get in, I ended up using two pairs of pliers on either side of the linkage to pop them on. 7. Once everything is in the only thing left is to reconect the drivelines. If you want you can remove the wiring harness through the hole in the floor while the seats are out, it comes through the floor about six inches behind the drivers seat. The shift control module is located behind the passenger side kick panel and is held in by a couple of screws. The last thing I did was to remove the trim panel housing the shift switches and the switches them selves and replace it with a blank trim panel. Hope this helps, if you have any questions let me know.Rade Spasojevic - 1990 XLT Bronco
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